January
Peak- Weather
- Dry and sunny on Samui & Phangan. Windy on Koh Tao, choppy crossings.
- People
- Busy after New Year.
- Stays
- Peak rates; book weeks ahead.
- Trips
- Good on Samui. Koh Tao dives move to sheltered bays.
DEVERASTravel, truly.
Slow travel, nature & local stories. Real places, real people. GO LOCAL. Based in Thailand, creating worldwide.
The Gulf, truly.
A practical guide to Koh Samui, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao, the Gulf islands where we spend most of the year. How to get there, what each month really feels like, what to respect, and who you'll actually meet on each island.
Updated 10 Oct 2026Written from Koh TaoBy Henrique & Agatha
01 · Getting there
Three islands, one ferry line.
Samui, Phangan and Tao sit in a row in the Gulf of Thailand, on the east side of the peninsula. Phuket is on the other coast (the Andaman Sea), so getting from one side to the other always means crossing land first. Ferries link the three islands every day.
FerryFlightBus / train / vanTimes are approximate fast-boat times.
From Bangkok
~1h05
Fly straight to Koh Samui
Direct flights from Suvarnabhumi (BKK) land at Samui's small airport. The fastest way in, and the most expensive. From Samui, boats to Phangan take about 30 min and to Tao about 1h30–2h.
~1h + 3–4h
Fly to Surat Thani or Chumphon, then boat
Budget airlines fly from Don Mueang (DMK). Book a joint bus + ferry ticket from the airport. Surat Thani works best for Samui and Phangan; Chumphon is closest to Koh Tao.
~8h + 1h45
Bus or night train to Chumphon, then boat to Koh Tao How we do it
Combined bus + boat tickets (Lomprayah, Songserm) leave Bangkok in the morning or evening. The overnight train to Chumphon is a classic Thai experience: book a sleeper berth early. We ride Bangkok → Chumphon by bus ourselves, and it's the calmest way to arrive.
From Phuket (or Krabi, Khao Lak)
~55m
Fly Phuket → Samui
A few direct flights a day. Easiest crossing, highest cost.
~6h + 1h30
Bus or minivan to Donsak pier, then ferry
Only a few morning departures, so plan the day around them. Ferries from Donsak go to Samui (~1h30), Phangan (~2h30) and on to Tao. Joint tickets cover the whole trip.
~6h
Private transfer with the car ferry
The driver takes the car across to Samui. Comfortable for families or groups with lots of gear.
| Island hop | Fast boat | Arrives at |
|---|---|---|
| Koh Tao ↔ Koh Phangan | ~1h–1h30 | Mae Haad (Tao) · Thong Sala (Phangan) |
| Koh Phangan ↔ Koh Samui | ~20–60m | Maenam, Bangrak, Nathon or Lipa Noi (Samui) |
| Koh Tao ↔ Koh Samui | ~1h30–2h | Usually stops at Phangan on the way |
Where we bookWe buy ferries, buses, trains and joint tickets on 12Go (12go.asia). It compares operators and times, shows which pier you leave from, and sends the e-ticket to your phone.
Book your stay on Agoda
Agoda is the booking platform most travellers use in Asia, and our crew codes give you a discount on rooms and activities.
Check your pier. Samui alone has four main piers and some ferries leave from different ones. Your ticket says which one; double-check before you book a taxi. Morning boats are usually smoother than afternoon ones.
02 · When to go
The Gulf runs on its own calendar.
The Gulf's rainy season is the opposite of Phuket's. When the Andaman side is wet (roughly May–October), the Gulf is often at its calmest. When it rains hardest here (late October–early December), Phuket is drying out. Koh Tao differs a little from Samui and Phangan, so it has its own row.
Weather & sea
Samui · Phangan
Samui · Phangan
Weather & sea
Koh Tao
Koh Tao
Crowds & room demand
BestGoodMixed / some rainMonsoon, rough seaBusy, book early
February
Peak- Weather
- Dry, calm, clear water.
- People
- High. Lots of couples and long-stayers.
- Stays
- Peak rates; best rooms sell out.
- Trips
- Everything runs. Diving visibility starts to open up.
March
Sweet spot- Weather
- Very dry, hot, flat sea.
- People
- Medium. The crowd thins after February.
- Stays
- Still high, but easier to find.
- Trips
- Everything open. One of the best months to dive Koh Tao.
April
Hot & calm- Weather
- The hottest month. Calm sea, occasional short shower.
- People
- Medium, with a spike around Songkran.
- Stays
- Mid-range; book Songkran week early.
- Trips
- Great diving. Whale shark sightings are most often reported in spring.
May
Quiet- Weather
- Low season begins. Short tropical showers, mostly calm.
- People
- Low.
- Stays
- Lower rates, easy availability.
- Trips
- Some swell days. Ang Thong Marine Park can cancel trips on rough days.
June
Gulf's window- Weather
- Calm, while Phuket gets its monsoon.
- People
- Low.
- Stays
- Good value.
- Trips
- East coasts are calmest. Low tides start to shape beach days (see Tides).
July
Summer bump- Weather
- Mostly dry and calm.
- People
- Medium. European summer holidays arrive.
- Stays
- Rates rise again; popular places fill up.
- Trips
- Good. Daytime low tides make some beaches too shallow to swim.
August
Summer bump- Weather
- Mostly dry and calm.
- People
- Medium to high.
- Stays
- Book ahead for the best spots.
- Trips
- Good. Koh Tao's west side can get choppy; dives move east.
September
Quiet- Weather
- More rain on Samui & Phangan; still decent on Koh Tao.
- People
- Low.
- Stays
- Among the best-value months of the year.
- Trips
- Some boat trips cancelled on choppy days.
October
Turning- Weather
- Rain builds through the month. Sunny mornings, heavy afternoon storms.
- People
- Low. Islands feel local again.
- Stays
- Low rates. Some small places close for their own holiday.
- Trips
- Plan around the weather; have an indoor backup (cooking class, spa, café).
November
Monsoon- Weather
- The wettest month. Rough sea, long rainy days.
- People
- Very low.
- Stays
- The lowest rates of the year.
- Trips
- Many boat trips cancelled. Ang Thong Marine Park usually closes 1 Nov–15 Dec. Ferries can be delayed.
December
Peak- Weather
- Wet first half, clearing towards Christmas. Koh Tao stays windy.
- People
- Very high from Christmas.
- Stays
- The highest rates of the year; book months ahead for Christmas and New Year.
- Trips
- Samui and Phangan open up again. Koh Tao depends on the wind.
Full Moon Party dates move. Haad Rin's organisers shift the party when the full moon lands on a Buddhist holiday or an election. Confirm the date before you book. On Phangan, rooms near Haad Rin fill up and rates rise for the 2–3 nights around each party.
03 · Tides
Check the tide before the beach.
The Gulf has big tidal swings, and from roughly May to October the lowest tides fall in daylight. A beach that looks perfect in the morning can be a hundred metres of shallow reef by lunchtime.
Low tide changes these the most
Koh Phangan's west and south coasts (Ban Tai, Baan Kai, Sri Thanu) and parts of Samui's north coast (Bophut, Maenam) can get too shallow to swim. Chaloklum on Phangan's north coast swims best at high tide.
What to do
Use a tide app or tide table for the island you're on, and plan swims, snorkelling and kayaking around high tide. Wear reef shoes at low tide, and never walk on coral.
Boat trips & diving
Operators plan around tides, wind and swell, and cancel when it isn't safe. A cancelled trip is a good sign. Book with flexible dates in the shoulder months.
Sandbars
Some of the most photographed spots, like the sandbar linking Koh Nang Yuan's three islets, look completely different at high and low tide. Go at both if you can.
04 · Money
Thai baht (THB, ฿).
Cash is still king on the islands, especially at markets, small restaurants, scooter rentals and boat taxis. Resorts and larger restaurants take cards.
1 US dollar฿33.57100 ฿ ≈ US$2.98
1 euro฿37.60100 ฿ ≈ €2.66
1 Brazilian real฿6.71100 ฿ ≈ R$14.91
- Thai ATMs charge a fee to foreign cards (usually around ฿220–250 per withdrawal), on top of your bank's fee. Take out larger amounts less often.
- Always pay in baht. When a card machine or ATM offers to convert to your home currency, decline. That conversion rate is worse.
- Exchange booths in town beat the airport. Bring clean, untorn notes; damaged bills are often refused.
- Tipping isn't expected, but rounding up or leaving small change for good service is appreciated.
05 · Everyday customs
Small gestures, big respect.
Thai people are generous with foreigners who get things wrong. Still, a few basics go a long way, and they're the difference between passing through and being welcomed.
Greet with a wai
Palms together at chest height, a slight bow. Return a wai when you receive one (you don't need to start one with shop staff or children).
sawasdee kha / khrap · hellokhop khun kha / khrap · thank youWomen end with "kha", men with "khrap".
Head high, feet low
The head is the most respected part of the body and the feet the lowest. Don't touch anyone's head, don't point your feet at people or sacred images, and don't step over people or food on the floor.
Keep a cool heart
Raising your voice or arguing in public makes everyone lose face, and it rarely solves anything. Smile, slow down, and let things go.
mai pen rai · never mind, it's OKjai yen yen · keep a cool heartThe monarchy
The royal family is deeply respected, and criticising it is a serious crime in Thailand. Stand for the royal anthem played before films in cinemas. Banknotes carry the King's portrait, so never step on money.
Shoes off at the door
Homes, many guesthouses, spas, clinics and even some shops. If you see shoes outside, take yours off too.
Dress for the place
Swimwear is for the beach. Put a shirt on in town, in shops and in restaurants. Keep public affection low-key.
Alcohol has its own clock
Shops only sell alcohol during set hours, and sales stop on major Buddhist holidays and election days. Some bars close on those days too.
Bathrooms
Most toilets have a hose spray. In many places, especially older buildings, toilet paper goes in the bin, not the bowl.
06 · Temples & sacred places
Visiting a wat.
Temples are working places of worship, not attractions. Every island has them, and visitors are welcome when they follow a few rules.
- Cover shoulders and knees. No tank tops, short shorts or see-through clothes. A sarong in your bag solves it.
- Take off shoes (and hat and sunglasses) before entering a temple hall. Look for the shoe pile.
- Sit with your feet tucked behind you, never pointing at a Buddha image or a monk. Keep your head lower than the Buddha's.
- Walk clockwise around stupas and keep your voice low.
- Women shouldn't touch monks or hand things to them directly. Place the item down, or on the cloth the monk lays out.
- Don't climb, sit on or pose playfully with Buddha images. Using the Buddha as decoration or a tattoo is considered disrespectful.
- Don't touch spirit-house offerings. The little shrines outside homes and shops (san phra phum) protect the land. Food, drinks and flowers left there are for the spirits.
- Ask before photographing people praying or monks up close.
07 · Curiosities
Things nobody tells you.
Spoon in the right, fork in the left
Thais eat with a spoon and fork. The fork pushes food onto the spoon, and the spoon goes in your mouth. Chopsticks are for noodle soups. Sticky rice is eaten by hand.
Sweet, sour, salty, spicy
A good Thai dish balances all four, often in one bite. Sugar on noodles is normal. The table caddy (chilli flakes, sugar, vinegar, fish sauce with chilli) is there for you to adjust.
"A little spicy" is still spicy
Thai "a little" is not foreign "a little". Start with no spice and add from the caddy.
mai phet · not spicyphet nit noi · a little spicyMeals are shared
Order several dishes for the table and eat with rice. Take a little at a time from each plate.
Fruit, chilli salt and durian
Green mango and pineapple come with a dip of salt, sugar and chilli. Then there's durian, the "king of fruits": creamy, sweet and so pungent that many hotels, taxis and ferries ban it. Love it or hate it, try it once, outdoors.
Local shop before 7-Eleven
You'll see a 7-Eleven on almost every corner, but the family-run shops and markets next door sell nearly everything it does: water, snacks, sunscreen, SIM top-ups. Buy there first, and your money stays on the island.
08 · The islands, truly
Who you'll actually meet.
Three islands, three very different crowds. These are our honest impressions from living in the Gulf. Every island has a quiet side, if you go looking for it.
Koh Samui
เกาะสมุยThe polished oneThe biggest and most developed of the three, with its own airport, international hospitals, beach clubs and the most luxury resorts. It pulls a young crowd split between wellness (detox retreats, yoga, fasting, breathwork) and partying, plus couples, families and digital nomads. Chaweng is busy, loud and full of traffic. Fisherman's Village in Bophut is charming, but touristy.
- Go for
- Comfort, wellness retreats, easy logistics, special occasions.
- Skip if
- You want rustic island life on a tight budget.
- Our corner
- The "other side": the south and west coasts (Thong Krut, Taling Ngam, Lipa Noi). Slower, quieter and more local.
Koh Phangan
เกาะพะงันTwo islands in oneMost people know Phangan for Haad Rin and the Full Moon Party: young backpackers, buckets and very long nights. There's also a large spiritual scene, especially around Sri Thanu and Zen Beach, with yoga, ecstatic dance, cacao and tantra circles, and jungle parties beyond the Full Moon. The crowd is young and international, with a big Israeli backpacker community; you'll see Hebrew menus and signs in parts of the island. Roads are steep, and scooter accidents are common.
TrulyWe haven't been back to Phangan in a long time. It isn't our vibe anymore, but the island's nature is beautiful and it's worth seeing at least once.
- Go for
- Nightlife, spiritual retreats, jungle and waterfalls.
- Skip if
- You want peace during Full Moon week. Stay far from Haad Rin then.
- If you go
- Head north and east: Bottle Beach, Thong Nai Pan, Chaloklum and the Phasawan viewpoint. Wild, green and quiet.
Koh Tao
เกาะเต่าThe divers' islandSmall, steep and rugged, and one of the busiest places in the world to get scuba certified. The crowd is mostly divers, a bit older, plus long-stayers and nomads who came for two weeks and stayed for months. Sairee Beach has the sunsets and most of the bars. The nightlife is real, but smaller and calmer than Phangan's. It's our home base.
- Go for
- Diving and snorkelling, viewpoints, a tight community feel.
- Skip if
- You don't like steep hills or wet-season wind (November–January).
- Our corner
- The east-coast bays (Tanote, Aow Leuk) for snorkelling, and the local restaurants away from Sairee. GO LOCAL.
09 · Travel like crew
Our one rule: respect the place.
Respecting nature and local customs comes first for us. If that's how you travel too, you're crew.
- Reef-safe sunscreen, or a rash guard. Never touch, stand on or take coral, shells or sea life. Watch turtles from a distance.
- Refill, don't buy plastic. Most cafés and dive shops have water refill stations. Some protected spots ban single-use plastic entirely.
- Ride a scooter only if you really can. Carry a valid licence that covers motorbikes and wear a helmet. Without them, police fine you and your travel insurance may not pay.
- Flying a drone? Thailand requires drones to be registered before you fly. Keep away from temples, crowds and people's homes.
- Spend locally. Eat at family-run places, book Thai-owned tours, buy from the market. GO LOCAL is how the islands stay alive.
- Don't feed fish or wildlife, and don't join animal shows.
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